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Most snakes hatch from eggs (oviparous). Racers, bullsnakes, milk snakes and green snakes
are common egg-layers. The eggs are usually white and have an oblong, leathery-like shell. 
Eggs are normally deposited in a location that is moist and relatively warm such as sand, 
sawdust piles, rotting stumps, or 
 

Rubber Boa (Charina bottae); Baja ratsnake (Bogertophis rosaliae)


under rocks. Snake eggs are not incubated like bird eggs; the warmth of the substrate and rays of the sun control the incubation process. Incubation may last up to 60 days before the young are fully developed and hatch. Other snakes, such as garter snakes and rattlesnakes, have live birth of the fully developed young (ovoviviparous). The fertile eggs develop within the maternal body.

Food

All snakes are predators. They must locate their prey before they seize it. Snakes will eat whatever they can catch, master, and swallow. Their prey is located by their senses of vision, smell, or thermosensitivity. The food they consume depends upon the animal’s size and the environment where it lives. Rattlesnakes eat rodents such as mice, ground squirrels, and the young of prairie dogs and cottontail rabbits. They also eat other snakes, lizards, birds, and insects. The average snake will consume two to three times its own weight in various food items between the spring and fall months when the snake is away from its winter den.

Hearing

Snakes do not have external ears and are probably deaf to most sounds.They "hear" by sensing ground vibrations with their belly scales and lower jaw.

Sight

A snake’s vision is mainly used for detecting movement of prey. They have difficulty seeing motionless prey or enemies. Objects probably appear as a blur at 40 feet, but at 10 to 15 feet, the objects appear sharper. The vision of many snakes, like the rattlesnake, is better suited for nocturnal searching. Some species, such as racers and garter snakes, have eyes specialized for daytime activity. Snakes appear to stare at their prey because they have no eyelids. The eyes of snakes are lidless, but are protected by a tough, transparent covering, or scale, that is shed with the skin. The pupil or the black portion of a rattlesnake’s eye is elliptical, not round as found with the nonvenomous snakes.

 

 
 

 
(Figure compliments of Missouri Dept. of Conservation)
All snakes are covered with scales, which are thickened areas of a thin outer skin layer. Under this layer is another skin layer that contains pigment cells that give a snake its distinctive color pattern. The arrangement of color patterns, type of scales, and scale rows are used to identify the various species. 

Rattlesnakes, bullsnakes, and garter snakes have what is called a keeled scale (Figure 3 below), which has a ridge on the center of each scale. Other snakes, such as the racer and milk snake, have smooth scales (Figure 2 below), with no ridges. The skin of a snake is dry, not slimy. Molting, or skin shedding, is repeated periodically throughout a snake’s life. Just prior to shedding, the skin becomes dull and dry looking and the eyes become cloudy or blue-colored. After a few days, the eyes clear and the snake "crawls" out of its old skin, which peels backward over the body from head to tail, in one piece. A new, larger, and brighter layer of skin has formed underneath. An older snake may shed its skin only once or twice a year, but a younger, still-growing snake, may shed up to four times a year.

Check the range maps (on snake pages) to determine if the species of snake actually occurs in your area. For each species there is a listing of key characteristics that will help you distinguish the snake from those of similar appearance. Each snake description includes whether the species has keeled or smooth scales. 
 

 
Figure compliments of Joseph T. Collins)
 


 

 
Snakes are ectotherms, which means they regulate their body temperature by taking heat from their environment or by giving off heat. Because their body temperature is affected by environmental temperatures and varies with surrounding conditions, snakes are inactive during hot seasons (aestivation) and cold seasons (hibernation). Snakes may go for several weeks without eating because of frequent periods of inactivity.

Because snakes are cold-blooded, they must rely on behavior to regulate their body temperature. During the hot part of the day, snakes move to shaded areas. On cool days, they sun themselves on rocks or in warm and open areas. Snakes often seek out paved roads because they are attracted by the heat from the road surface.

Because snakes have a backbone, they are classified in the same group (vertebrates) as fish, mammals, birds and humans. The snake's skeletal system is unique. Snake bones are light and highly movable. The lower jaws and skull are connected by a piece of stretchy material called a ligament. This allows the snake to open its mouth wide and move each jaw independently. Thus, a snake can swallow prey much larger than its head.

Snakes do not have legs, ears or eyelids. Often the sex organs of a snake protrude from the anal plate area, and some might think these are legs.

Snakes use their forked tongues to smell. Their tongue constantly flicks to pick up airborne particles and odors. Once it detects these aromas, the snake inserts its tongue into two holes on the top of its mouth (Jacobson's organ), where its brain interprets the smells. If the snake detects food and is hungry, it will pursue the animal.

Contrary to popular belief, snakes are not slimy. In fact, they feel dry to the touch. The snake's scales and skin help keep it from losing moisture from its body. Snakes shed their skin and eye covering together.

With the warmth of spring, snakes emerge from their winter quarters and search for food and mates. After mating, the male and female snakes separate. Each goes its own way to forage for food until the fall.

Some snakes lay eggs in a damp, protected area where they will hatch in about two months. Other snakes hatch eggs inside the body. Copperheads, rattlesnakes, cottonmouths, garter snakes and water snakes give birth to live young. Once the young have been hatched or born, they are able to take care of themselves. If you find snake eggs around your home or garden, they were laid by a harmless snake.

All snakes are predators, and many are particular about what they eat. Rat snakes eat rats, mice, voles and bird eggs. Water snakes feed primarily on dead, diseased or injured fish. King snakes feed on other snakes, mice, young birds and bird eggs. Some small snakes (the rough green snake) eat insects while others (earth snakes and worm snakes) eat earthworms, slugs and salamanders. Toads are the favorite food of the hognose snake.

When people encounter a snake, they often corner it. Then the snake will hiss loudly, open its mouth in a threatening manner, coil up and strike at the individual or bluff by advancing toward the person. These behaviors are designed to scare off an intruder. They lead, however, to a common misconception that snakes charge or attack people. In most cases, a snake reacts only if it feels threatened. Usually, it crawls away if it can reach cover safely. One exception is the male black racer, which may chase larger animals, including humans, when it is defending its breeding territory.

Habitat
Snakes like to live in damp, dark, cool places where food is abundant. Likely places to find snakes around homes include

Firewood stacked directly on the ground, 
Old lumber or junk piles, 
Gardens and flower beds with heavy mulch, 
Untrimmed shrubs and shrubs growing next to a foundation, 
Unmowed and unkept lawns, abandoned lots and fields with tall vegetation, 
Pond and stream banks with abundant debris and trash, 
Cluttered basements and attics with a rodent, bird or bat problem, and 
Feed storage areas in barn haylofts where rodents abound. 
Identification of poisonous snakes
 
 

Pupil shape
Harmless snakes have round pupils (the black part in the center of the eye). Poisonous snakes have egg-shaped or cat-like (elliptical) pupils. In good light, you easily can see the pupil shape from a safe distance because snakes cannot jump, nor can they strike, from more than one-third of their body length. 
Pit
Poisonous snakes in Missouri also have a conspicuous sensory area or pit (hence the name "pit viper") on each side of the head. The pit looks somewhat like a nostril and helps the snake locate warm-bodied food. It is located about midway between and slightly below the eye and nostril  Harmless snakes do not have pits. 
 

Scale arrangement
The underside scales of a poisonous snake's tail go all the way across in a single row from the anal plate (see Figure 2). The tip of the tail may have two scale rows. Nonpoisonous snakes have two rows of scales from the vent to the end of the tail. This characteristic also can be seen on skins that may have been shed. 
Other features may help you identify a poisonous snake at a distance

Head shape
Usually, poisonous snakes have a triangular (wide at the back and attached to a narrow neck) or "spade-shaped" head. Be aware that many other harmless snakes flatten their heads when threatened and may appear poisonous. 
Distinctive sound
Usually, rattlesnakes sound a warning rattle (a buzz or a dry, whirring sound) when approached. However, many nonpoisonous snakes (black racers, corn snakes, rat snakes, milk snakes and pine snakes) and several poisonous snakes (copperhead and cottonmouth) often vibrate their tails when threatened. The sound produced by this vibration often imitates a rattle or hissing sound when the snake is sitting in dry grass or leaves. 
 
 

You can learn to distinguish poisonous snakes from nonpoisonous species by their color and pattern.

Color patterns and markings
Snakes with lengthwise-striped markings are nonpoisonous. Most solid-colored snakes also are nonpoisonous, except the adult western cottonmouth, which has dark crossbands that often are indistinct. If a snake is marked in any other way, use other characteristics for identification. 
Tail
You easily can recognize young cottonmouths and copperheads by their bright yellow or greenish yellow tails. 
Snake bites
Snake bites occur despite precautions. Most first-aid texts do not encourage victims of snake bites to kill the snake. The victim may wind up being bitten a second time. Whether the snake is poisonous or harmless can be determined within a few minutes if the victim begins to experience pain and swelling at the bite. Also, all snake bites normally are treated with crotalid antivenom, applicable to all poisonous species in the state, so identifying the snake is not as important as it once may have been. 

You should ask your doctor during a regular visit for advice regarding snake bites.

If you are bitten

Stay calm 
Get medical help quickly 
Beneficial aspects of snakes
Before deciding to kill a snake in your yard or garden, consider the many benefits of snakes. Snakes are one of nature's most efficient mouse traps; they kill and eat a variety of rodent pests. Although snakes will not eliminate pests, they do help keep their numbers in check. Some harmless snakes (king snakes, milk snakes and black racers) eat other snakes, including poisonous ones. 

Snake venom has been used to develop a variety of human medicines. One type of high-blood-pressure medicine was developed using information based on chemical secrets contained in snake venom. Researchers are conducting studies using snake poisons in developing treatments for blood and heart problems. Snake venom also is being investigated for controlling some types of harmful bacteria.

Snakes in Missouri are protected by state law. The Wildlife Code of Missouri treats snakes, lizards and most turtles as nongame. This means there is no open season on these animals, and it is technically illegal to kill them. Of course, realistic exceptions exist, such as when a poisonous snake comes in close contact with humans, which could result in someone getting bitten. You should get a collecting permit from the Missouri Department of Conservation before attempting to catch and keep a snake.

 
 

 

sringneck
Ringneck Snake
Diadophis punctatus
 

 

Controlling snake problems
The most effective and lasting method for discouraging snakes is to modify the environment so they find it unattractive. 

Habitat modification
Modify the environment by removing the snake's shelter and its food source. 

Lawns and fields kept clean and closely mowed are less attractive to snakes than are areas of tall grass, weeds, brush and junk. Remove other hiding places, such as old boards lying on the ground and piles of rock and trash. Trim shrubs and bushes so limbs are at least 12 inches from the ground. 
Stack fireplace or stove wood away from your home on a rack at least 12 inches off the ground. 
Cleaning around the yard also removes rodent habitat, eliminating a favorite food source for snakes. Also, reduce a snake's food source by placing garbage in sealed trash cans (not bags) away from the house. If you feed pets outside, keep all dog food and cat food cleaned up after each feeding, and store feed in a steel trash can, making it unavailable to rodents. 
Chemical control
No fumigants or toxicants are federally registered for snake control. The potential for development of such snake controls is complicated by the diet, body temperature and other biological aspects of snakes. 

Currently, only one chemical for repelling snakes is registered in Missouri. It is available under the brand name Dr. T's Snake Away¨ and contains the active ingredients napthelene and sulfur. However, research has shown that repellents may not be effective under some circumstances. 

 

 

Gaboon Viper picture, showing fangs, Bitis gabonicaKing Cobra picture, Ophiophagus hannah

King Cobra at the Riverbanks Zoo
Columbia, South Carolina, USA (November 11, 2005)
 
 

King Cobra
 
 

 
Exclusion
Snakes enter buildings in search of cool, damp, dark areas or places where rodents and insects abound. To prevent these unwanted guests from entering your home, check the foundation for cracks and openings one-fourth inch or larger. 

To seal holes or cracks, use mortar for poured concrete, concrete block or brick foundations. Use one-eighth-inch hardware cloth or sheet metal for wooden buildings. Use caulk to seal cracks and openings around windows, doors, electrical pipes and wiring. 
If you have an open septic tank or sump-pump drain outside, cover the opening with one-fourth-inch hardware cloth. Check it periodically to ensure that the wire does not interfere with drainage. 
If you have young children and live in an area where poisonous snakes are common, you may want to invest in a snake-proof fence . Semipermanent snake-proof fences are expensive to construct, so fencing an entire yard is not practical. However, you can enclose a small area where young children play. 
To construct a semipermanent snake-proof fence, use one-fourth-inch hardware cloth at least 36 inches wide. Bury the lower 4 inches of the fence underground. The fence should slant outward at a 30-degree angle. Place supporting stakes inside the fence (see Figure 9 detail). You can make the fence sturdier by attaching wires from the fence to the stakes. If you use a gate, it must fit tightly and should open to the inside because of the outward slope of the fence. 
A more temporary, less expensive design uses a fine-mesh net, buried two inches to three inches in the ground, with metal or wooden support stakes slanted outward at a 30-degree angle for support. 
Keep grass and weeds around the fence mowed close to the ground to prevent snakes from using them to crawl over the fence. 
 
 

Removal from inside buildings
Occasionally, homeowners find a snake inside the home, usually in a basement or crawl space. Snakes are attracted to these areas by the warmth on cold days and the shade on hot days. They may enter through a hole around the foundation or an open or loose door or basement window. If this occurs, you need to get the snakes out, then seal the holes. 

You increase your chances of capturing a snake in the house by placing in areas where snakes have been seen some rumpled, damp cloths covered by dry cloths. Snakes are attracted to these areas. You then can remove the whole works, snake and cloths, or capture the snake individually. A good way to remove a snake is to sweep it with a broom into a large bucket.

Another effective way to capture snakes is to use a glueboard. You can buy these in a variety of places, such as agriculture-supply or hardware stores. Most small snakes can be captured using a single glueboard placed against a wall. Keep the board away from pipes or other objects a snake could use for leverage to escape.

A more elaborate arrangement is necessary to capture larger snakes  This type of glue trap can be made at home with purchased glueboards. It is constructed of one-quarter-inch plywood cut into 16-inch by 24-inch sections. Drill a three-quarter-inch hole in one corner to allow removal of the board by using a hook on the end of a long stick. Fasten two to four glueboards (or use bulk glue) along one side of the plywood board. This type of trap, when placed against a wall, is capable of capturing snakes up to 5 feet or 6 feet long.

Use glueboards only indoors or under structures where children, pets or other wildlife cannot reach them. The glue is quite messy and hard to remove. Use common cooking oil or vegetable oil to remove animals from the glue. Be sure to seal any holes or entrances so the snakes do not return. Another option is to use the newly developed snake trap called Snake Guardª. It should be used like a glueboard.

Remember, snakes are an important part of our natural world. The best approach in managing snake problems, where possible, is to leave the animal alone.
 

 

 
 
 

Several field guides also are available, including:
 

Northern Copperhead  (Agkistrodon contortrix mokasen)
 
 



  Taking the venom from the snake
Snake Venom: A poisonous snake has two fangs, which are grooved or hollow teeth, situated at the front of the upper jaw. Each fang is connected by a duct to a poison gland behind the eye on the corresponding side. These two poison glands are modified salivary glands, the secretion of which is called venom. When the snake bites, the venom is excreted into the fang wounds. Venom probably helps the snake is killing its prey and facilitates digestion.

Fresh venom is clear viscid liquid and yellowish in color. The extracted venom, when dried, forms yellow crystals which retain toxicity and solubility in water for a long time, and is used for immunizing horses in the production of antivenine sera and also for research work.

 

Tree boa [Sanzinia madagascariensis] (Andasibe)

Tree boa [Sanzinia madagascariensis]


California Kingsnake
 


 

 
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Snake Farm FAQ

Q: Why are the men who handle the snakes for venom extraction not bitten? Are they immunized against snake poisoning?
A: Snakes are generally not aggressive but they will bite when provoked. In the process of venom extraction the snake is handled gently by experienced men who are trained to do the job with care and confidence. They are not immune by any means and have to be treated with antivenine serum if they happen to be bitten. Such accidents rarely occur and are mostly due to carelessness.

Q: How often can venom be taken from each snake?
A: Venom extraction should not be repeated until after 2 weeks or longer.

Q: How much venom does a snake yield and how many persons can this amount of venom kill?
A: The yield and potency of venom vary with different species of snakes. By applying light pressure over the glands the average yield of liquid venom from a Cobra at one extraction is about two thirds of a gram in weight. It is impossible to determine the exact fatal dose of snake venom for humans. This average yield of venom froma Cobra is sufficient to kill approximately 50,000 mice or 1,000 rabbits.

Q: How many eggs does a snake lay at one time and how long does it take before the eggs hatch?
A: Number of eggs and incubation period vary in different species of snakes. A female Cobra may lay 20-30 eggs. Incubation period from the time of laying to the time of hatching varies in different species. It has been recorded that it ranges from 40 to 136 days. In captivity the eggs do not hatch and the young live vipers do not survive.

Q: Are Cobras the only snakes milked for venom?
A: All poisonous snakes brought to our snake farm are milked for venom on arrival. Since Cobras are the most common deadly snakes in this country, specific antivenine serum against Cobra poisoning is in great demand and this is turn requires larger amount of Cobra venom for teh production of Cobra antivenine serum.

Q: How can one distinguish a snake that is not yet milked from one that has already been milked?
A: A snake that is not yet milked for venom will show bulging of poison glands which are aituated just behind the eyes.

Q: Is King Cobra not more dangerous than Cobra?
A: King Cobra is the largest poisonous snake. A full grown specimen is over four metres in length. The amount of venom excreted on biting would be very large and surely fatal but on dry weight basis Cobra venom is about 10 times as toxic as King Cobra venom. However there has been no authentic case of natural King Cobra bite on record in Thailand.

Q: What is the most deadly snake?
A: By considering the lethal dose of venom in experimantal animals and severity of poisoning in humans, Cobra is the most deadly. In a fatal case of Cobra bite the victim dies in a short time, about one to six hours.

Courtesy Sriwittaypaknam School, Thailand


 



 
A Field Guide to Reptiles and Amphibians of Eastern and Central North America, by Roger Conant. Peterson's Field Guide series. Houghton Mifflin Co., Boston. 
The Audubon Society Field Guide to North American Amphibians and Reptiles. Alfred A. Knopf, New York. 
 

Outdoor prevention and control tips

Remove snakes' food and shelter. 
Keep your lawn closely mowed, and remove debris. 
Control rodents. 
Watch where you put your hands and feet when removing or cleaning debris. If possible, don't put fingers under debris you intend to move. 
Wear snake-proof boots at least 10 inches high or snake leggings if you're in an area where snakes are likely to be found. 
Never step over logs or other obstacles unless you can see the other side. 
If you encounter a snake, step back and allow it to go on its way. Snakes usually don't move fast, and you can retreat from the snake's path. 
Indoor prevention and control tips

Check foundation for holes and cracks, and seal all openings. 
If you find a snake in your home, try to isolate it within a small area. 
You can catch a nonpoisonous snake by pinning it down with a long stick or pole, preferably forked at one end, and then removing it by scooping it up with a flat-blade shovel. 
If you can't remove the snake yourself, find someone who has experience handling snakes to do it for you. A good place to start is your local animal-control shelter or sheriff's office. 
As a last resort, you may need to kill a poisonous snake. Club it with a long stick, rod or other tool such as a garden hoe. Never try to kill a poisonous snake with an instrument that brings you within the snake's striking range (usually less than one-half the total length of the snake). 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

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